We set out for Dogon country on a bus that was particularly bad. Every time the engine died it was necessary for 5 or 10 of the passengers to get off the bus and push start it back to life, and then run and jump back on before it sped away. And considering that busses stop every hundred meters in Mali it made for a long trip. Our destination was Mopti, the nearest city to the Dogon tribes.
The Dogon are famous for several things. Firstly, they are the tribe in africa that builds their houses on cliffs. Secondly, “The Dogon people are a tribal people living in Africa who were reported as having certain traditional astronomical knowledge about Sirius that would normally be considered impossible without the use of telescopes.” Although this supposed knowledge has been disputed.
Arriving in Mopti, an ancient city built in the middle of a giant rice swamp, our first order of business was to find a guide to take us from the city of Mopti, to the native land where the Dogon people reside. In Dogon country the indigenous population speaks an array of languages so varied that they can’t even communicate from tribe to tribe, so it’s necessary to have a local along with you. This of course means getting ripped by an African whose made it his career to hustle French people.
After a lot of bad noise, Dianna had to fire our first guide, and we replaced him with someone who seemed slightly less shifty, and who could prove that he had access a working vehicle to transport us into Dogon-land.
Within 10 miles of the start we had to stop at a Poste De Controle, which is just a place where cops block the road with metal barrels and you have to bribe them to let you pass. I tried to take a picture of the Post De Controle but our guide warned me against it.
A few miles down the road we ran in to another problem. The only bridge leading to the Dogon had collapsed the week before:

So we had to drive the MB sedan accross the river:

After 25 miles of driving across road that I would never attempt to drive without a 4WD with a good suspension, we arrived at a Dogon village situated on the top the Bandiagara Escarpment, which is a geological cliff dropping off about 500 meters. We slept on the roof of a mud house build at the edge of the cliff. We awoke to this in the morning:


The next day consisted of hiking through crevasses to the bottom of the cliff. Half way down we visited our second Dogon village:

This village was organized in to three parts: Christian, Muslim and Animist. Animists are the original religion of the Dogon culture, followed by Muslims, who dominated the region since the 12th century, and then the Christians, who have had missionaries in Mali for fifty years or so.
Once we had descended the cliff, we hiked for a mile or so to view the impossible dwellings of the ancient Dogon people. They built their houses into seemingly inaccessible nooks in the sides of the cliff. Of the two hundred kilometers of the escarpment, many sub-tribes found their homes, among them were a group of Pygmies. Here is a picture of one of their houses:

The hike back up the cliff provided some good photoshots:


